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  • What do you all recommend for cutting and shaping styrafoam?

    Posted by Bob Gibney (Farmingdale, New York - USA)

    I've used builders styrofoam. I've made tunnel portals and a 'rock' retaining wall. The guy who got me started on this approach has a 3 foot 'stone' arched bridge. As for tossing your tunnel in the attic in the winter, be sure you weight the tunnel with something or a windstorm just may "transport' your tunnel to the neighbors' yard.Yes, it's available in different thicknesses ( I've seen 3/4" pink, 1 1/2" in blue & green).Painting is critical, you must use acrylic or latex paint - 'oil' base paint will dissolve the foam (as I discovered when I made a base for a coal load for a gondola & sprayed it black - it started looking like the La Brea tar pits after half an hour. I use a brand of house paint called MURALLO (or Muralo) it lasts really well - and for wood buildings you can dilute it with water to give it a weathered or 'washed out' look.For gluing, I use Acryilic Caulk with Silicone by DAP or, if you can find it, by UGL. Check your local hardware store.Good luck!





    Posted by Mike Oates, Fairfax Station, VA
    First, I use the insulation kind of styraform that most home centers carry as opposed to the typical packaging foam. Packaging foam is is not very dense and does crumble, but for certain applications that is what you may want. The insulation foam is more dense and easier to work with. Cutting: I just bought one of the recently released Woodland Scenics foam cutters and it works very well. Others are available at much more money. You can cut or even sculpt or emboss the more dense foam with "hot wire" tools. A serated knife and a hasp can be used for cutting and shapping, but boy does it make a mess. Painting: I like latex wall paint for base coats and any of the typical water based scenery paints for highlights and details. I use tan, grey, or green, depending on what the final surface (dirt/rock, road, grass will be. Oil base paints will attack the foam. White clue or liquid nails works well for laminating it or gluing it to a surface. With proper sealing, I think it can be used outside. Hope this helps.



    Posted by Jon Foster, White Lake MI
    I used to make rocks for my indoor layout with regular foam. I would glue the foam to my work area, like the side of a mountain then use a razor blade to scar the foam like the layers of rock on a real mountain. After that I pulled out the foam in little chunks with my fingers to make it look rough. It can look good or bad at this point. Next, I used my finger to smear silicone caulk (the tubes on clearance at Meijer) all over the foam to cover it. It turns out that the razor marks become very defined when the caulk starts to stick to the thicker parts of the foam. Last, paint it like the rock you want. I dull coated it because it always had a gloss look to it. From more than two or three inches away you can't tell its foam! And an extra plus was the fact that kids could smack it and it would just smash down like the foam that it is and return to your finished state after....

    As for the styrafoam, I would think a sharp knife or fine tooth saw would do the trick. Paint may be another thing. I think many paints would eat the foam on contact. Maybe Mac can help out on this...

    Jon.



    Posted by Viv Swaim, Alabama
    Hi Jon,

    Uh, when you talk about the foam you use, is it like the foam for making sofa cushions? If so, I can handle that stuff. Cuts great with an electric carving knife :) But if we are talking about the same kind of stuff, where do you get yours? Fabric stores carry it, but it isn't cheap. Just wondering if I'm looking in the wrong place. Have some left over from some sewing projects, and plan on playing with that before purchasing any new.

    Thanks for the tips!



    Posted by Jon Foster, White Lake MI
    One and the same. I get mine from old pillows or even new ones from Kmart when they are on sale for a buck or two. I had two beds from one of my old trucks (beds from the back camper) and took them apart when I sold the truck. So far the bed foam has lasted a few years. You can use foam sponge's if its like the yellow foam for beds and pillows etc. also.



    Posted by Viv
    Jon, Thanks! Never thought of pillows . And they do have great sales. Thanks again.



    Posted by Bob Rich, Warwick, NY
    Viv,Around here we can get the soft pillow type foam at a place called "The Rag Shop." It statred out as a factory outlet type fabric store. It now caiters to crafters as well as sewers. they have the foam in various sizes, including matress size. It is cheaper there than at the regular fabric stores. If you could find something like that around where you live you might make out better.I wonder if your layout is outside, because I know it can be moist there. My folks live in Mobile. They have only two seasons there. First there is the summer and then comes July and August.If you are outside I would think the foam would load up with water no mater how well you sealed it.BobLehigh & Hudson River RR



    Posted by Clay
    If you have new subdivisions going in around you go there and ask the builder if you can pick up the scrap pices of foam they use on the houses.

    Clay



    Posted by Terry Vrabel Ortonville Mi. on January 05, 1999 at 17:06:28: 143.detroit-05-10rs.mi.dial-access.att.net - 12.76.115.143


    You can use regular water base house paint on foamAny oil or mineral paint will eat the foam.There are styrofoam paints on the market and the are$$$ but if you read the back of the canit's just water based enamel. They just want your money.I use the left over paint in the can to paint the inside of my (cement styrofoam)buildingsInside is styrofoam. The new water based acrylicenamel paints are really good, they put a nice protective shell on your project. Just rememberWATER BASED PAINT> Have FUN!!!!! Terry